Days 30-31: Clevedon and Hunua Ranges to Mercer

Day 30: I woke early and packed in the grey dawn light, moving on as quick as I could. To my surprise, I was greeted to the sight of a large gaggle of children at the lookout above Clevedon!

They are part of a Papakura church group, getting out there and enjoying nature. Good on them, I say! 

I got to Clevedon, expecting to wait til shops opened... Again I was surprised to see the Sunday market already setting up and the cafe open for breakfast. 

I had forgotten daylight savings! So it was an hour later than my watch... It all made sense now. I was greeted by a family at the next table, Chris was quick to identify me as a TAT walker- he is planning to walk in November, he gave me some nav help for the coming day, and I told hi briefly about the Herekino/Raetea forest section. I ate a large breakfast (my appetite is huge nowadays!), said goodbye and headed towards the wairoa river and the start of the Hunua Ranges.

Picturesque, no? 

A couple on horseback came by, doing some voluntary track maintenance on some very good looking horses.

What was interesting was that even though it was a weekend, I came across fewer than 5 others out enjoying this very beautiful area... I wonder why?

Great to see messaging about preventing kauri dieback disease!

I was heading for a basic campsite near Repeater Road (less chance of yobos etc hanging out by a composting toilet , eh!), and it was taking awhile- I was feeling tired and run down, but no time to feel sorry for myself! Up one track I saw this, which is never good..

... And on the other side, it said:

Phew! No signage on the other end of this track... Anyway, I reached the first dam and was impressed.

And not far from here, my home for the night.

Now, I know what you are thinking- Pat, what about your hammock?

Never fear! Where there is a will, there's a way:

It was very comfortable, with oodles of rainwater. And it was topped up nicely through the night which made for a cozy atmosphere. 

Day 31: This morning it was a drizzly  affair, hinting at the kind of day in store. Perfect!

Throughout the day it poured, blowed, and I was rewarded with some great encounters. Like two little piggies! Finally, my first visual sighting of wild pigs, and they were only sucklings. No idea where momma was, I was expecting an angry charge at any moment, but nothing. The kiddies played hide and seek with me, I could not get close enough for a good shot (on my iPhone), and didn't want to frighten them any more, so you will just have to believe me! 

There's one part of the track- the Southern Hakataramia track where the track notes caution you that good tramping skills are needed, and to stick to the track. Ok. It was fine for a bit, then it got ridiculous. Marker pointing at what looked like an escarpment.

After some time scrambling and climbing, I decided on a new plan. I interpreted 'good tramping skills' to mean know when you're beaten and head for a ridge line. I followed the ridge through a bunch of blown down trees, expecting to intersect with the marked route eventually. And so I found...

DOC workers! We had a chat about the trail, they told me they weren't responsible for the trail I had just walked (Auckland Regional Authority), and I carried on but not before a happy snap!

I love hard work, I could watch it for hours.

By late afternoon I emerged near SH2 to walk some farmland. Cows. Naturally.

Three bulls decided to play, I spent the first kilometer with these three stalking, charging, and then shying away at the last moment when my magic sticks were brandished. Eventually they let me be, and I walked on through howling wind and rain around a swamp and farmland. 

One of the intriguing things about the TAT is the diverse nature of the track. One moment, forests, then farms, then urban terrain..

And some cool engineering. 

An Archimedes Screw, obviously. But you knew that.

So, I'm catching up with my blog, recharging my batteries (literally), and doing laundry at the Mercer Hotel- a basic but cozy cabin. It will do me! I've had a scan of the upcoming terrain, looks like another two nights before I reach Hamilton. Bring it on! Thanks for reading, don't forget to share this with your friends and donate what you can. Gracias!

Day 15 & 16: Ngungaru and Pataua

Almost the moment I had posted my last blog, a fierce storm whipped up and really kept me interested through the night! By daybreak I was a bit tired after regular rounds of the tarp and guy lines etc to ensure it wasn't blown away. 

Despite the underside of my hammock getting a good soaking, I remained warm, but I was happy to see daybreak and after putting back on all of my sopping, cold clothes, I broke camp and got a brisk pace going.

After another farm track slippery slide I was greeted with views from the top of my night location

I slid down the hill, ruminating on the regularity with which I get covered in cow excrement these days. I must be blessed.

Getting into Whananaki I had a chat with some of the locals about the storm- apparently mini-tornado ripped through somewhere to go with the lightning  storm. they also served up a really tasty homemade chicken and veggie pie for my breakfast, which I ate so fast I didn't get a pic!

Next, a wee walk across the estuary on the 'longest wooden walkway in the Southern Hemisphere'. This caused me much excitement.

Dampened slightly by a stroll on the estuary mud.

Along the coastal walk I met Colin and Ann from Jo'burg and chatted briefly about Te Araroa, before resuming my journey which followed some beautiful farmland trails and beaches. I don't know who owns some of those beach houses, but wow.

After what felt like a very long day (lack of sleep), I stumbled into Ngungaru and went about the serious business of drying out my gear, provisions for the rugby and finding a pub. What? No pub? Anyway, I did find a tv. And bourbon. That'll do donkey, that'll do.

This morning's walk was all road verge stuff, which I am slowly getting accustomed to. Funny, you see signs to places such as Whangarei, and the driving distances are far more efficient than the Te Araroa trail, but I suppose that's the point- the journey through some varied and often spectacular (or different) parts of NZ. And explains why the big difference with kms shown on the Cape Reinga sign, I think as the crow flies it says around 1,400 km. 

As for weird stuff along the way today, I noted a particular house with CCTV on the front gate, and speculated it might be  Kim dot Com's hideaway retreat in Northland.

And this guy on the side of the road, a face carved into a fallen log.

So for some more road verge walking. Which made my heart sing to come round a road bend to see this:

Also, I spied a family of Pateke, and more bunnies than in Watership Down. 

On dusk I reached Pataua South

and rigged my hammock at a beautiful spot on the estuary, loving the sounds of the various birds tonight down here, even with the whine of mossies!

Another big walking day tomorrow should see me over Bream Heads and into Whangarei for a rest and resupply, and a catchup with family. And so to bed.

Day 13: Waikare and Russell Forest

Last night was a blast, hanging out with staff from the Mousetrap, an awesome backpackers in Paihia. Across the road from the Mousetrap the local bar had an open mic night, and Melissa who works at the backpackers really impressed with a great voice and guitar playing, despite the guitar being nearly as big as she is!

It was a fun night out and a relief to talk to people- days in the forest without company doesn't suit me as much as I thought! :-)

Hm, not the best pic, but kinda sums up the night- happy blurriness!

Next day I got going around 0830, walking the road verge to Opua where I was to rendezvous with Micaila from Dive Ops who would run me across to Waikare by water taxi. I meet her near the  Opua Cruising Club and we zipped along as she filled me in on local oyster farming and the expected numbers walking Te Araroa this season.. It surprised me to hear overseas hikers outnumbered Kiwi trampers almost ten to one!

It was a quick ride into mangroves, and we said our farewells as I stepped ashore.

After walking a metalled farm road for a few kilometers, it was into the river for 4 kms upstream- this time I felt far more settled despite the rain. 

It was kinda fun, splashing about for hours, and the cold water helped with my drink-induced 'tiredness'. I found a nice big eel (ok, 'found' is a stretch. I accidentally got my legs wrapped up by one while struggling through a deeper section of river), also some tasty-looking berries

... which I did not eat. A little too 'Into the Wild' for my liking! But if anyone can identify them for me, that would be grand.

By 1600ish I had reached a hut, but continued on my way to make best use of daylight. 

So right now I am under my tarp in the Russell Forest, warm and dry and well fed after a meal of couscous and surprise veges (thanks for the top tip, Adi!). The rain is coming down but little wind to make things uncomfortable, so I'm snug as a bug! A couple of friends have been sending me text messages titled 'Te Araroa Tip of the Day', such as 'giardia is nature's enema and helps you to shed unnecessary weight, so drink up'... And they also texted, part by part,  The Rime of the Ancient Mariner, which I love but has such a depressing air to it especially when out here by myself! Nevertheless, the texts were awesome- thanks Scotty and Adi, you two crack me up.

No idea what the plan of attack is tomorrow, but it feels good to be walking South again rather than crabbing across the Island. I may also chalk up my 300th kilometer tomorrow at the end of the day, a cool milestone (10% completed!). Hoorah!

That's all folks, g'night!

Day 9: Of Giants and Lesser Beings

The day started off well enough. It had been raining lightly all night and this had persisted into the morning. I had a bit of a lazy start, having a cooked breakfast and coffee for a treat, and seeing to my feet which needed some TLC! 

So did this little guy, a weta who dropped  by to say hello...

I finally broke camp at 0845 and took a pic by the Omahuta Forest sign. My trousers have a mind of their own by now and want to be an extra in the next Tintin movie.

I then start the walk up the road, stopping regularly to doctor my feet, which has become a habit born of necessity!

And then I start catching glimpses of giants in the mist all around me!

None of my photos do these Kauri justice- such an immense tree, they radiate energy and their sheer massiveness is humbling. I quietly limp by, hoping irrationally not to attract their attention. Te Araroa follows a 4wd track for a while before the track is a stream, to  be followed downstream for some kilometers. Now, given the rain (even though light) this makes me a little nervous so I overplan the river section. I shift gear around so my emergency kit is in a dry bag in my zip pocket, map and compss around my neck, trousers unbloused etc in case the waters rise quickly as I am stuck In a bit of a canyon with few escape routes. If I need to, I'll pack float, worst case ditch the pack. 

And so I begin...

And the views were amazing!

The rain started coming down in earnest, so I hurried the pace up, and I found myself checking the water level and coloration, trying to detect any signs of a flash flood.

It seemed to take an age as I followed the twists and turns of the canyon, water up to waist deep at times. I finally arrived at the junction with the main river, and I waded across to the far shore with relief!

Back on dry land- muddy it was, but the 'New Zealand death' hadn't claimed another victim! I was so eager to stay out of the river that I opted to follow the river upstream on the wet weather track rather than the recommended river walk. Sounds great, but that meant kilometers of 'edging', climbing and scrambling along a wet, muddy and steep riverbank for the most part. I was reduced to one kilometer an hour, working hard to stay upright on my feet, often unsuccessfully! It became a slippery slide at times, with the worry of a drop into the river below. I was not exactly in my happy place!

It was probably the hardest part of this journey thus far. I found a few things to cheer me up though, such as singing Crowded House loudly, and finding interesting photo subjects...

Eventually the track left the river and followed a ridge line skyward, and I was back in my happy place, especially coming across a small forest of 'young' Kauri. It felt like I was on the Moon of Endor and any moment ewoks would pop out of hiding.

I found a place to hang my hammock and to get warm and dry. I'm lying in my hammock now typing this on my IPhone, which has become part of the nightly ritual. The rain is coming down steadily, and sounds overly loud on my cuben fibre tarp, almost like a tin roof hut. Tomorrow I will probably reach my night bivvy early, but with insufficient time to press on to Kerikeri in one day (we'll see).   That means another cooked breakfast and coffee tomorrow! Whoo, doggy!